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A. 0. HANCOCK. ADJUSTABLE GARMBNT PATTERN.

Patented Sept. `.'LL

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A. 0. HANCOCK.

ADJUSTABLE GARMBNT PATTERN.

No. 590,495. Patented Sept.'21, 1897.

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ADJUSTABLE GARMENT PATTERN.

No. 590,495. Patented Sept. 21,1897.

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- the front of the Waist.

UNITED `STATES 'PATENT OFFICE.

ABRAM O. HANCOCK, OF NEXV ORLEANS, LOUISIANA, ASSIGNOR OF ONE- HALF TO JAMES M. LANE, OF SAME PLACE.

ADJUSTABLE GARMENT-PATTERN.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 590,495, dated September 21, 1897.

Application leil February 27, 1897. Serial No. 625,271. (No model.) l

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, ABRAM O. HANCOCK, of New Orleans, in the parish of Orleans and State of Louisiana, have invented a new and Improved Adjustable Chart forDraftin g Garments, of which the following is afull, clear, and exact description.

This invention relates to a chart for drafting the waists of womens dresses; and it consists in a certain construction by which the pattern is adapted to universal measurements.

In constructing the invention I provide the patterns for the several parts of the waist of a series of adjustably-connected templets, so that by extending or contracting these templets on each other the measurement of the waist may be adjusted.

Reference is to be had to the accompanying drawings, forming a part of this specification, in which similar characters of reference indicate corresponding parts in all the figures.

Figure 1 is a plan view of the pattern for Fig. 2 is a plan view of the pattern for the back of the waist. Fig. is a plan view of the pattern for the upper part of the sleeve. Fig. t is a plan view of the pattern for the under part of the sleeve. Fig. 5 is a plan view of the pattern for the under-arm body, and Fig. G is a plan View of the pattern for the curve side body.

The parts shown compose exactly one-half of the pattern necessary for the waist, each section, as illustrated in the drawings, being necessarily duplicated in constructing the waist.

The front pattern (shown in Fig. l) is formed of eleven templets, respectively numbered 7, 3, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, and 17. The templet S is the main templet and has two downwardly-extending portions 8 and 8b, each formed with two longitudinal slots, respectively carrying rivets Se, by which the templets 9 and 12 are mounted to slide independently on the downwardly-extendin g portions S and Si. The templets 9 and 12, being adjustable vertically, regulate the length of the waist, each templet being provided with a mark indicating the waist-line of the dress and the projections S being provided with a scale by which the adjustment of the templet 9 may be regulated. The upper front portion of the templet lS has a necktemplet 7, provided with rivets 7, respectively sliding in slots in the templet 8. The neck-templet is therefore adjustable vertically to regulate the size of the neck. The shoulder-line of the front is formed by the two teinplets 10 and 11, located at the upper end of the templet S. The templet 10 has rivets 10a, respectively sliding upwardly and slightly rearwardly in correspondingly-dis,- posed slots formed in the templet 8. The templet 11 has rivets 11, respectively sliding in slots formed in the templet 10 and disposed parallel with the shoulder line or seam of the waist. seam may be adjusted upwardly by moving the templet 10, and this line or seam may be lengthened or contracted by sliding the teniplet 11. In changing the length and position of the shoulder line or seam it is necessary to change the position of the armhole, and to 'this end I form the templet 11 with a downwardly-extending and arc-shaped projection 11b, having slots carrying the arc-shaped telnplet 13, through the medium of rivets 13a, running in the slots of the projection 11b. The templet 13 is curved to form the front of the armhole, and when the templet 11 is adjusted the templet 13 is carried with it to ad- -just the armhole accordingly. The templet 14 is pivoted to the templet 8 by a rivet leta and has a second rivet la", sliding through a slot formed in a projected portion Sd of the templet 8. The upper end of the templet 14 is approximately level with the lower portion of the templet 13, and from this point the templet 14 extends downward to about the average waist-line. The templet 14 carries a templet 15, which has rivets 15, sliding in vertical slots formed in the templet 14.. The upper portion of the templet 15 has a reference Waist-scale produced thereon, which reads on the adjacent edge of the templet 17 whereby the position of the templet 17 with reference to the templet 15 may be regulated. The templet 15 is also provided with a mark indicating the waist-line, as in the templets 9 and 12. The upper portion of the templet 14 has a transverse slot formed therein which receives a rivet 1G, carried by the upper part By these means the shoulder line or IOO ot the tem plet 16. The slot in which the rivet 16 slides has a bust-scale at one side, so that the adjustment of the templet 16 through this slot may be regulated with the help of the scale. The rivet 16 forms the only means for connecting the templet 16 with the templet 14, and hence the templet 16 is made to swing as well as slide on the templet 14. rlhe templet 16 carries the templet 17, which has two rivets 17, respectively sliding in slots in the templet 16. The templet 16 has a scale indicating the position of the templet 17 on the templet 16, and the templet 16 has amark indicating the waist-line. Such being the construction of the front of the waist, the pattern is adjusted by moving the various templets to positions corresponding with the contour which it is desired that the pattern shall have.

The templets 9, 12, 15, and 17 may be spread or contracted laterally to regulate the size of the waist, and these templets may be moved vertically to regulate the length of the waist.

The back (shown in Fig. has four templets 18, 19, 20, and 21. The templet 18 has a rivet 18, sliding in a slot forme-d in the templet 19 and disposed parallel with the shoulder-line 18, so that the templet 19 can be moved in and out to adjust the length of the shoulderdine. The templet 18 is contracted at its lower portion and formed with a vertical slot receiving a rivet 21 of the templet 21, which is a vertically-elongated templet having a mark indicating the waist-line and having a rivet 21, sliding in a longitudinal slot formed in the contracted lower portion of the templet 20. The templet 20 has a rivet 20, by which the templet 2O is pivoted to the templet 18. The templet 20 curves forwardly and upwardly from the lower end of the templet 18 and is joined to the templet 19 by a rivet 20". The templet 18 is provided with a scale running along the slot through which the rivet 21 passes to indicate the position of the templet 21 on the templet 18. By adjusting the templet 2O toward and from the templet 18 the width of the back may be regulated, and it will be seen that this regulation of the width of the back will be in unison with the regulation of the length of the shoulder-seam, all of which is necessary. The templet 19 is provided with a bust-scale.

The under arm has four templets 22, 23, 24, and 25. The templet 24 has a rivet 24 sliding in a transverse slot formed in the upper portion of the templet 22. The upper edges of the templets 22 and 24 form the under portion of the armhole, and the width of this under portion may be regulated by adjusting the templets transversely with reference to each other. The templet 22 has two longitudinal slots formed therein, through which the rivets 23 of the templet 23 respectively slide. The templet 23 is carried, therefore, by the lower portion of the templet 22 and has a mark indicating the waist-line as well as a Waist-scale used in conjunction with the templet 25, so as to regulate the position ot the templet25 with reference to the templet 23, which varies the size of the waist. The templet 24 has two vertical slots receiving, respectively, the rivets 25 of the templet 25. The templet 25 may be therefore adjusted vertically on the templet 24 and the adjustment regulated by means of a scale formed on the templet 24. The templets 23 and 25 are duplicates of each other and are oppositely disposed, as will be seen. The templets 22 and 24 are both pivotally and slidably connected with each other, so as to afford more universal adjustment.

The curve side body consists in four tem plets 26, 27, 28, and 29. The templet 26 has a diagonal slot receiving arivet 28 of the templet 28. rlhe diagonal upper edges of the templets 26 and 28 are alined with each other,

and when the templets are adjusted by the rivetv 28, sliding in its slot, the length of the under portion of the armhole may be regulated, since the diagonal upper edges of the templets 26 and 28 form the under portion of the armhole. The templet 26 has at its lower portion two vertical slots respectively receiving rivets 27 of the templet 27 which has its lower portion widened and provided with a diagonal lower edge. The lower part ot' the templet 27 has a transverse slot receiving a rivet 29, carried by the lower part of the templet 29. The templet 29 has also two rivets 29, respectively sliding in vertical slots formed in the templet 28. By these means the templets 27 and 29 may be adjusted vertically on the templets 26 and 28. The curve side body may also be widened or narrowed by moving the templets 27 and 29 toward and from each other through the medium of the rivet 29 and the slot wherein said rivet slides. The templet 27 is provided with a waist-scale used with reference to the movement of the templei's 27 and 29 -toward and from each other, and the two teniplets 27 and 2-9 are each provided with a marl; indicating the waist-line.

The top arm-section of the sleeve portion of the pattern shown in Fig. 3 consists in five templets 30, 31, 32, 33, and 34. The templet 30 has two rivets 30, respectively sliding in vertical slots in the upper portion of the tcmplet 32, while the upper portion of the templet 32 has a rivet 32, sliding in a slot formed in the templet 30. The templet 30 is located above the templet 32. The templet 32 is curved downward and to the right, as shown in Fig. 3. The intermediate and lower portions of the templet 32 have rivets 32, re-

spectively sliding in diagonal slots formed in the templet 34. The templet 34 is provided with a scale used with reference to the templet 32, so that the adjustment of the templet 32 on the templet 34 maybe observed. The templet 32 is provided with a mark indicating the position of the elbow. The upper portion of the templet 34 has two curved slots ICC IIO

slidably receiving rivets 33, carried by the templet 33, and the templet 33 has a slot receiving a rivet 34a, carried at the upper portion of the templet 34. By these means the templet 33 is mounted to slide on the templet 34. The fifth templet 31 is provided at its upper portion with a rivet 31, sliding in a transverse slot in the upper portion of the templet 33. The templet 31 has its lower portion provided with a short transverse slot receiving another rivet 33 of the templet 33. By these means the templets 31 and 33 may be adjusted laterally toward and from each other. The templets of the top arm-section of the pattern may thus be adjusted to enlarge or diminish the size ot' the arm. The templets 30 and 32 slide longitudinally on each other and diagonally on the templet 34, while the templet 33 slides diagonally on the templet 34 and has the short templet 31 adjustable transversely on it.

The under section of the sleeve portion of the pattern is formed of two templets 35 and 3 Each templet is curved to suit the form of the arm, and the templet 36 has rivets 36, respectively sliding in diagonal slots formed in the templet 35. The templet 35 is provided with a scale indicating the position of the templet 36 on the templet 35. The templet 36 has at its upper and lower portions scales used in taking the length-measure of the arm.

Assuming that the cloth has been cut for each section of the pattern, as shown, these pieces of cloth will form one-half of the waist. The side edge a of the front in Fig. 1 is joined to the side edge a of the under-arm body in Fig. 5. The side edge b of the under-arm body in Fig. 5 is next joined to one side edge b of the curve side body in Fig. 6. The side edge c of the curve side body in Fig. 6 is next joined to the side edge c of the back in Fig. 2. The side edge CZ of the top of the sleeve in Fig. 3 is next joined to the side edge d of the under part of the sleeve in Fig. 4. The side edge e of the top form of the sleeve is next joined to the side edge e of the under form of the sleeve. Having thus put together the sections of the waist and the sections of the sleeve, it is next necessary to join the upper edges of the sleeve to the armhole. One half of the waist is then completed, and upon forming the other half and joining it to the first half the whole waist will be com# plete.

Having thus described my invention, I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent- 1. Afront section for waist-charts, the front section having a main templet 8, a templet slidably connected with the upper portion of the templet 8 and movable in a vertical line transversely wi th reference to the templet 10, a templet 11 parallel with the templet 10 and slidably connected therewith, the templet 11 being movable longitudinally on the templet 10 and having a downwardly-extended arcshaped projection 11b and an arc-shaped templet 13, the upper portion of which is slidably connected with the projection 11b and the lower portion of which is extended downward and rearward upon the armhole of the waist.

2. A back section for waist-charts, the back section having four templets 18, 19, 2O and 21, the templet 19 being slidably connected with the upper portion of the templet 18 and projected forwardly from the templet 18, the templet 20 being pivoted to the forward extremity of the templet 19 and curved downwardV and rearward and having sliding connection with the lower extremity of the templet 18 and being extended below said templet 18, and the templet 21 being extended from the lower portion of the templet 18 downward beyond the templet 2O and having sliding connection vwith the templets 18 and 2O so as to move vertically thereon.

3. An upper sleeve-section for Waist-charts, the said section having five templets, 30, 31, 32, 33 and 34, the templet 33 being slidably connected with the upper portion of the templet 34 so as to move approximately vertically thereon and the templet 31 being slidably connected with the templet 33 so as to move transversely on the templet 33, the templet 31 being extended vertically, the templet 32 being located at the rear portion of the templet 34 and running vertically above and below the same and having sliding connection therewith so as to move diagonally on the templet 34, and the templet being located rearward of the templet 31 and at the upper port-ion of the templet 32 and having sliding connection on said templet 32. ABRAM O. HANCOCK. lVitnesses:

OsoAR SCHREIRER, HENRY A. BERNARD.

IOO 

